Sunday, July 5, 2009

The Crescent

I've been heading out to the boulder field here at NCOBS just about everyday and I found this awesome line that I was told was an unrepeated John Sherman problem called The Crescent. I tried it a couple times and found out its definitely doable. I had to reclean all the holds and find out where the holds were at the top which seemed pretty blank at first. I worked on it for a couple days and got more and more progress every day. I ended up brushing most of the face to see if there were any hidden feet jibs and there were! Tiny little nonexistant feet made the problem even more doable. I thought Sherman was full of shit cause this thing seemed pretty hard to me. After 5 days of solid work this problem went after a lot of brushing and rebrushing every hold due to hot summer nastiness.

The start is a right hand in the sharp three finger crimp and a left hand on this sloper crimp horizontal with a really high right foot. From the start your throwing left up to another not so good sloper horizontal.

Your then bringing up a left foot on this nonexistant quarts jib to throw right for two fingered sloped crystal.
After you stabalize your feet your goin up for the crux which is the shittiest top out I've done in a while. with just smears and slopers for hands. I was so stoked to be done with this thing after fallin off the topout at least 10 times and scraping my whole chest on the way down.

The next day I found out, via NCOBS archives, that the unrepeated Sherman line was the one to the right of that and not the one the I ended up sending. So I found out that I sent one of the long time projects of the boulderfield and ended up callin it The Crescent which everyone seemed to call it anyway. I was pretty stoked about it. I think there is a pretty nasty undercling crimp sit start to this problem as well which will bump it a grade harder after it goes. I still got the rest of the summer ahead of me and I'm lookin forward to continuing my offseason training at the NCOBS boulderfield. Hopefully some video is in the near future. It's raining now so probably take a couple days off and rest.

-Dino

Friday, July 3, 2009

First post

Well, this is my first post and I don't have too much to say really. I've been at Table Rock Basecamp for Outward Bound working as a Logistics Coordinator for the summer. I love my job a lot and love the fact that I'm a five minute walk from some pretty good boulders. Not many people know about them because its on NCOBS property and the only people that can climb on them are employees. It's different. I hate climbing in the summer to start with because it's really hot and muggy but this summer seems to be goin alright for once. I just consider it training for the upcoming season. I normally have a lot of trouble staying in shape over the summer but this year will hopefully be different. I've been working on this problem recently called The Cresant. I think it's about a V8 but won't be sure until I can figure out the topout. It's an unrepeated Sherman problem that not many people get on because it has such a hard crimpy, body tention, weather dependant start to it. I'm headin back out there tonight and hopefully get the second on this really cool problem. Pics to come. . .